• Bandages only.
• Special vest, with or without bandages to secure the leads
• Harness, with or without bandages on top.

• http://www.vetmed.wsu.edu/deptsvcgl/holter/applyHolter.aspx
• http://www.etsy.com/view_listing.php?listing_id=9028399
• http://www.heartlightdobermans.com/Holter%20Instructions.pdf
• http://www.dogleggs.com/files/vest_holter.cfm

Electrodes Position for the Holter

You have the choice of putting the electrodes on the sides of the dog, or under the chest. Details on each approach below. With either position, you can also choose whether or not to shave the dog. I've used various options and with all but one of the readings on my monitor got 20-23 hours of good recording.

HOW DO YOU DECIDE WHICH POSITION? Under the chest means shaving and/or any sticky residue on the skin is less obvious to observers - ideal for show dogs. Putting electrodes under the chest can be awkward with a smaller dog or one with a narrow chest as there isn't much space for the electrodes between nipples. The skin on the chest can be a bit more sensitive when the bandages/electrodes are being removed. I also find it little more fiddly to put the electrodes on as it's hard to see what I'm doing so the dog can get a bit annoyed (but that's a short term thing). Under the chest also means it's much more important to avoid the dog getting wet as wet grass or splashes from wet ground can reach the chest more easily than the sides of the dog.

HOW DO YOU DECIDE WHETHER TO SHAVE? Shaving possibly increases the chance of getting a good long reading and makes it easier to remove the glue left from the electrodes - sticky hair is harder to deal with than sticky skin. However, some dogs with sensitive skins get a little irritated by having the sticky electrodes put onto freshly shaved skin. And, of course, shaving is more visible and there are ignorant people who think that patches mean there's something wrong with the dog.

Whether you shave your dog for the holter will depend on your needs and also on your dog and how thick and long their hair is, but for many dogs I would recommend at least clippering the hair back a bit to ensure the electrode has a close contact with the skin. After all, the investment of time and money in the test means it's better to do all you can to enhance the chance of a useful reading. However, better to holter without shaving than not to holter at all!

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THE SIDE APPROACH:

This is the traditional approach to holtering. If you choose to use this position and to clipper/shave your dog, the notes below show the areas where the electrodes will go for the 7 lead monitor I have - make sure you follow the directions given by your own monitor supplier.

Left side of dog

When shaving this side allow for about 18-20cm from the bottom upwards,and about 6cm wide.

Right side of dog

The second photo shows roughly where the 3 electrodes on the dog's right side will be positioned.

When clipping/shaving this side allow for about 15cm from the bottom upwards,and about 6cm wide.

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THE UNDER THE CHEST APPROACH:

This is the 'new' approach to holtering. The picture on the right shows a bitch sitting after the holter has been taken off. She was not shaved but has a short thin coat (she had been washed to remove the stickiness from the bandage, hence the coat looking strange in the photo).

If you want to use this approach and clipper/shave your dog, use the photo and the notes below as a guide to what areas of the chest to remove hair from. There is also a hook-up diagram for humans which gives an idea of the ideal position for the chest approach using the 7 lead monitor. Each electrode is about 4cm across so if hair is removed, a 6cm area should be done for each electrode.

The bottom pair of electrodes (green and black) are right at the bottom of the rib cage (or as close as you can get while avoiding nipples!). These two should be further apart than in the photo ideally.

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Wearing the holter

The photos on this page are of of various of my own boxers with the holter. The red bitch with blue bandages is Rosie wearing the holter. She's not a large bitch (21.5") so the holter looks particularly large against her. As you can see she is relaxed and happy with the holter. Some dogs get a bit miserable wearing it - I think it's a personality thing. Those dogs still play quite happily wearing the holter when given a chance, but may sulk a little.

10 year old brindle Kiri, also volunteered to model my holter and harness and the photos are below - obviously she hasn't been shaved and the electrodes aren't attached but it gives you an idea of how small the actual unit is on a dog.

I use a harness to attach the monitor to dogs because I did have the experience in 2005 of my vet's holter falling off Rosie and bouncing along the ground behind her as she ran around!! The monitor wasn't damaged but it isnt something I want to repeat! The harness means the holter just can't fall off, but of course it can still move about a little so tape and bandages are used on top of the electrodes and holter to prevent anything getting dislodged.

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Any questions or comments, please don't hesitate to contact me:
Dr. Daniela Rosenstreich
Email: .